Mosrite Japanese Re-issue (2000's) - Tuning Problems

[Dennisthe Menace]

"Thanks for your help Dennis.I'm gonna give the 8's a try.As well as the Gotoh locking machine heads.Will check out Zamminc , i've bought from them before(replacement pickguards for my Johnny Ramone Re-issue).Great seller."

Warthog, DON"T FORGET!!! When you put the 8s on, if you're old enough, think of it as when you got that first car with Power Steering(LOL). You DON'T NEED to press down with a lot of strength. You also will notice that you might be going out of tune. This is common, for with the lighter gauge strings, you are now probably pulling the strings a little bit 'sideways' which is to be expected. The best way to get started wth your New 'Power Strings' is to just "Think the note or the Chord" you are going to play. Yeah, you heard me right, just think of what you're gonna be playing, and let the guitar do the rest. I know this sounds like, "OK, the Menace has flipped" but IT DOES WORK. I've mentioned this in another thread before, but think of it as if you bought a new car. Obviously, the NEW car is going to drive and perform differently from the OLD one. Same deal with the lighter strings. Your guitar is going to perform differently with the lighter gauge strings. It will take a little getting use to, but once you have conquered that, you're gonna be asking yourself, "I can't believe I didn't do this a long time ago!" This might also change your EQ settings on your amp, but a little tweaking never hurt anyone

Zak, I just saw you post B4 me So I just wanted to add that my Bridge is "ANCHORED DOWN TIGHT" with 2 acorn nuts that Semie gave me with the updated Bridge Screws with threading on top. With the Bridge not moving, the saddle rollers will do what they were designed to do, roll with the string(s) if you bend them, OR use the Vibrato arm. With the Bridge anchored, it will not have a chance to rock (let alone, rock, and not come back to it's original position) and the INTONATION will be more PRECISE. Now again, this WORKS for me, but not everyone is going to like it. BUT, just like trying Flatwounds, or Heavier Gauges, you will be going the opposite direction as far as string tension goes. Again, it DOES TAKE A LITTLE GETTING USE TO.....AND A LITTLE PATIENCE AND TIME........THANKS DON (TOM)

[warthog]

I think the graphite in the nut slots & bridge rollers has cured my problem.Thanks for the info.Are you using locking machine heads?

8s??? Kiss your tone goodbye.



The #1 cause for tuning problems on any guitar is friction at the nut. Put some graphite in the nut slots and see if that doesn't help.
Also, how much room does your bridge have to "rock" back and forth? With the roller saddles it seems completely unnecessary to have a bridge that moves - there's always the chance that it is not returning to its correct position. Another thing to check.
On a good night I can play a 45min-1hour set without ever touching a tuning peg. I use 10s on the Mosrite, and for me that's REALLY light.

[zak]

I think the graphite in the nut slots & bridge rollers has cured my problem.Thanks for the info.Are you using locking machine heads?

Nope, just the stock Kluson knock-offs the guitar came with.
Keep dumping graphite in there every time you play a show and you should be ok...and make sure the rollers in the saddles are rolling smoothly. If you find that wang bar use makes strings go out of tune, they're binding in the nut slots. Usually an upward tug on the arm (or bending the strings) makes 'em return to pitch. Real tuning headaches occur when you reach for the tuning pegs before doing this.

[warthog]

The dry lubicant in the nut slots & bridge rollers has cured the problem.I think i'm still gonna go with the locking machine heads as an extra measure.Thanks for your help Danny.

Ahhhhh! the infamous going out of tune Mosrite problem. Hopefully you will get several suggestions as to how to cure the problem. There are many variables that can cause or contribute to the out of tune problems. Here are the areas I would investigate.

The string gauge being used with the type of vibrato spring is usually the first place to look for a cure. Putting on a set 11's or 12's with a spring rated for 9' and 10's, will immediately let one know they are not interchangeable.

You say you have the Vibramute vibrato, does it have the fixed bridge post or does it have the string rollers? Either way, a little bit of dry lubricant to the friction areas can be helpful. Fixed bridge posts are a little more problematic.

Is the string guide at the nut or at the zero fret loose? I always use just a drop of Elmer's Wood Glue to hold it in place, yet remaining removable if needed.

Another area of concern is the tunner's. Loose tuner shafts allow a string to go out of tune as the vibrato is used. Once slack is place on the string, a minor slip can occur in the gear of the tuner and it will not return to pitch without retuning the string. Obviously replacement locking tuners are the only real cure for this. There are some nice Kluson style locking tuners on the marker, but the are not cheap.

For the most part, any 'dive bomb' bends on the vibrato arm will cause even the best setup ones to eventually detune.

[dubtrub]

There are two additional steps that I use when tuning any guitar with a vibrato or 'tremolo' if you play a Fender.

Everyone has their own method of installing new strings. My preferred method is to stretch each new string when installing it on the guitar. I usually do this by tightening the string as normal then using my fingers I pull upward on the string a couple of inches two or three times to get the 'stretch' out of the string. Be careful and don't pull too hard or you will be replacing the new string again. All new strings will stretch until they settle in to their natural tension and it makes it a lot easier if you get them to artificially quit stretching before proceeding to this next step.

I tune one string and then depress the vibrato arm and let it snap back to normal position. I do this on each individual string two or three times as it will be slight sharp or flat almost every time. By using this method one string at a time until they are all virtually in tune on the chromatictic tuner, then I do a deep bend on the arm and let it return as in normal use, now go back through and check to see which ones have changed, then retune that individual string. Once it is set up using this method and having everything dry lubricated and friction free it should stay in tune a lot longer.

[Dennisthe Menace]

Dennis,
Don is indeed a fine player. Is Mighty Mouse the nickname for his LP with the soapbar in the neck and the DiMarzio at the bridge?
Okay. I get the 8's. I get the locking tuners. What's with the EQ? Is this something that if you told me, you'd have to kill me?

Strat-o-rama,
I don't know how I missed your post here, but I did......
1) YEP! Mighty Mouse is on the Treble side of Body where the pick guard would be,
and yes, it's his FIRST GOLDTOP (with the Cream P-90 Soapbar).
2) The EQ- No Bass, No Treble, it's all in the Mid-Range.....