out of tune!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MissionBrown]

I got it setup for 11's.
With a bit of adjustment for the sweet spot, it now stays in tune pretty well.
Though I think I should've stuck with the 10's as my hands aren't as strong/dexterous as when I was a teenager, back then I put 13's on everything.

Anyway that can be re-setup later on. I'll just leave it as is for the time being. Just happy to have it stay in tune

[brunob]

sad to see that I'm not alone .....,so I didn't play Mosrite at gigs,sorry!
but....,

[olrocknroller]

If the strings are returning sharp, it could be strings sticking in the nut. Lift the individual strings out of the slots, listening for any "Plinks". This will indicate a slot that is too narrow for the gauge of string you are using. I have replaced quite a few nuts for people who broke the nut while changing strings because of too heavy a string for the slot.

At lot of folks don't realize the implications of changing string gauges on the set-up of your guitar. For example, .009 - .042 strings apply a certain amount of tension (I don't remember the exact numbers, but you can Google the chart) to the guitar at pitch, but .010 - .046 tension at pitch is significantly higher, and .012 - .052 really apply the tension! This can affect how the strings sit in the nut, change the amount of relief in the fretboard, and definitely mess up the spring adjustment in the trem... etc. etc.

You mentioned that G seems worse than the others, so check there first. Do you sometimes hear a tiny little "Plink" sound when tuning? That's strings sticking in the nut. Second place could be too much tension on the spring(s) in the tremolo, which give the trem a tendency to return sharp. For Bigsby style spring systems, check to see if there is a spacer under the spring, remove it, and try again. For Strat-style spring systems, wedge a small block of wood ahead of the sustain block, so that the base of the saddle tray is parallel to the surface of the guitar, tune to pitch, then turn out the screws holding the claw to the body, with the guitar lying on a table surface, just until the block falls out. At this point your tremolo springs will be balanced. This works whether you like two or three springs in your trem.

As a last resort, try Elixir coated strings, they're more slickery.

[MissionBrown]

If the strings are returning sharp, it could be strings sticking in the nut. Lift the individual strings out of the slots, listening for any "Plinks". This will indicate a slot that is too narrow for the gauge of string you are using. I have replaced quite a few nuts for people who broke the nut while changing strings because of too heavy a string for the slot.

At lot of folks don't realize the implications of changing string gauges on the set-up of your guitar. For example, .009 - .042 strings apply a certain amount of tension (I don't remember the exact numbers, but you can Google the chart) to the guitar at pitch, but .010 - .046 tension at pitch is significantly higher, and .012 - .052 really apply the tension! This can affect how the strings sit in the nut, change the amount of relief in the fretboard, and definitely mess up the spring adjustment in the trem... etc. etc.

You mentioned that G seems worse than the others, so check there first. Do you sometimes hear a tiny little "Plink" sound when tuning? That's strings sticking in the nut. Second place could be too much tension on the spring(s) in the tremolo, which give the trem a tendency to return sharp. For Bigsby style spring systems, check to see if there is a spacer under the spring, remove it, and try again. For Strat-style spring systems, wedge a small block of wood ahead of the sustain block, so that the base of the saddle tray is parallel to the surface of the guitar, tune to pitch, then turn out the screws holding the claw to the body, with the guitar lying on a table surface, just until the block falls out. At this point your tremolo springs will be balanced. This works whether you like two or three springs in your trem.

As a last resort, try Elixir coated strings, they're more slickery.

Thanks Oldrocknroller,

The nut is free from plinking sounds, the tremolo seems to need to be tuned in a sweet spot to keep it that way.
I did pay for it to be setup(I don't have the tools for filing brass), but am not 100% happy with it as the guy added a shim to the spring. This has made the arm way too high for my taste. I like to hold it while picking for that seasick/wobbly tape sound

It does play nicely though, a great guitar for my short fingers.

I'm planning on getting a Hallmark vibrato for another guitar, hopefully that won't present the same issues as the aesthetics suit the hummingbird better than a Bigsby. The existing vibrato has a crack in it, so I don't know how long it'll hold up once I get it rebuilt.
See pics here: http://theawesomepowerofrockets.blogspot.com/2010/12/2010-tokai-hummingbird.html

[MissionBrown]

This is really not a lot of fun.

From what I've read and experimented with, it seems that I'm using the wrong gauge spring for the strings I've used.
The original spring wasn't tough enough for 10's and the new one is too strong for 11's

What's happening is that when I press down on the arm, it returns to pitch, but if I pull up, it feels like there isn't enough tension on the tremolo from the strings to pull it back down again and stays sharp.

So do I go and spend another $70 + strings to go up a gauge?

[olrocknroller]

This is really not a lot of fun.

From what I've read and experimented with, it seems that I'm using the wrong gauge spring for the strings I've used.
The original spring wasn't tough enough for 10's and the new one is too strong for 11's

What's happening is that when I press down on the arm, it returns to pitch, but if I pull up, it feels like there isn't enough tension on the tremolo from the strings to pull it back down again and stays sharp.

So do I go and spend another $70 + strings to go up a gauge?

You do seem to have a persnickety one, don't you! Have you checked to ensure that the tremolo itself operates perfectly smooth? I once encountered a Bigsby that seemed fine with no strings, but became notchy under string tension. Some further investigation revealed some filings in one of the bearing surfaces... Replaced the bearings, and all was well again. As to balancing strings to spring tension, Bigsbys can be troublesome, so I assume the Mosrite styles can present similar problems. Above all, Take care that the nut is grooved to accommodate heavier strings. Of course, once you've opened the nut up for heavier strings, a new nut will be required should you decide to return to a lighter gauge.

[MissionBrown]

Will a nut/guide that's been cut for 11's present a problem if I want to try 9's?
I'm considering slapping a set of 9's on there to see if the factory spring will suffice (It's really squishy).

My wife said to me "have you learned something?" just before I went to bed.
"whatever do you mean my dear?"
"Buying a guitar without playing it first"
"Oh. Probably not"

I bought it from a store three states away.
Honestly I doubt that I'd have picked up on the issue in store anyway.

EDIT:
I forgot to add that even with strings on, the bearings don't feel sticky.
It was staying in tune with a huge shim in there, but the bar was so high that it was nearly unplayable.
Since getting it done, I've been told that the guy who did the setup is good at repairs, but doesn't spend a lot of time on setups.
There's another guitar shop a little closer that I've been advised to try out.

I'm curious, would shimming the neck and raising the bridge would help with the string tension on the trem?

[Veenture]

What's happening is that when I press down on the arm, it returns to pitch, but if I pull up, it feels like there isn't enough tension on the tremolo from the strings to pull it back down again and stays sharp.

Just a thought here; does the trem spring fit snugly (at both ends) -i.e. not encountering any type of unwanted friction or play even?

[olrocknroller]

Will a nut/guide that's been cut for 11's present a problem if I want to try 9's?
I'm considering slapping a set of 9's on there to see if the factory spring will suffice (It's really squishy).

EDIT:
I forgot to add that even with strings on, the bearings don't feel sticky.
It was staying in tune with a huge shim in there, but the bar was so high that it was nearly unplayable.
Since getting it done, I've been told that the guy who did the setup is good at repairs, but doesn't spend a lot of time on setups.
There's another guitar shop a little closer that I've been advised to try out.

I'm curious, would shimming the neck and raising the bridge would help with the string tension on the trem?

I would try the nines...if you don't bend the strings a lot, you might get a way with it, especially if the grooves are real nice and smooth. Some people (ie older Hagstroms) cut the nut with V shaped grooves, but as you change string gauges upward, you slightly increase the height of the strings above the first fret, meaning a harder push is needed to get clean notes low down on the neck.

Sounds like you're still fighting the correct balance of spring for the string gauge. I would definitely not try shimming the neck; you would probably be shocked at the loss of sustain...

[MissionBrown]

Will a nut/guide that's been cut for 11's present a problem if I want to try 9's?
I'm considering slapping a set of 9's on there to see if the factory spring will suffice (It's really squishy).

EDIT:
I forgot to add that even with strings on, the bearings don't feel sticky.
It was staying in tune with a huge shim in there, but the bar was so high that it was nearly unplayable.
Since getting it done, I've been told that the guy who did the setup is good at repairs, but doesn't spend a lot of time on setups.
There's another guitar shop a little closer that I've been advised to try out.

I'm curious, would shimming the neck and raising the bridge would help with the string tension on the trem?

I would try the nines...if you don't bend the strings a lot, you might get a way with it, especially if the grooves are real nice and smooth. Some people (ie older Hagstroms) cut the nut with V shaped grooves, but as you change string gauges upward, you slightly increase the height of the strings above the first fret, meaning a harder push is needed to get clean notes low down on the neck.

Sounds like you're still fighting the correct balance of spring for the string gauge. I would definitely not try shimming the neck; you would probably be shocked at the loss of sustain...

Oh yeah, it was amazing when I removed the shim from my telecaster before I sold it to a buddy. I made him will it to my daughter as I'd had it for 17 years. He's a Springsteen fan and mine kinda looked like Bruce's on the cover of born to run. I didn't want to let it go, but he's very persuasive, and when I'm drunk I'm easily persuaded (it helped pay for my Mosrite).

Anyway I have a date with a music store near work to try out the Fender 63 Reverb reissue(my delta blues is nice but reverb is not it's strong point). Will get a set of 9's while I'm there.