The Olav Overdrive

[Veenture]

It is very difficult to describe but suffice it to say I've had to put in many hours to redefin and redesign the processes where I work. To say I didn't have a life is an understatement. I am well aware that this kind of pace is unhealthy.

I sincerely hope that you get due recognition ($$$). Glad to see you are able to spare some time here again, Sarah. Look after yourself, my dear.

[JimPage]

Hey, Sarah!

Glad to see you've returned!

You wrote:
>>I am well aware that this kind of pace is unhealthy. . . .

That is the truth, and it took me years to learn it. I've had to learn to say, "No," or they will just grind you down.

--Jim

[Sarah93003]

Thank you everyone.

Some progress. I drilled out the axle holes to 0.265" to accommodate the shaft of the potentiometers.



Here are the first two pots inserted into their new homes. The shafts stick through further than I would like. I'll have to pick up some flat washers to put on the inside of the car frame to shorten them up a bit. This way the tires won't rub on the wheel well of the car body.



Since this one will have three controls I don't need the fourth pot other than to act as an axle for the tire. It will be located in the right rear and just be a dummy non-funtioning pot. It's going to need some "modification" as you will see in the next step.

[stl80]

Drilling is very dangerous, as you know. Please be careful.
Jim

[Sarah93003]

Okay, update time.

The "dummy" potentiometer had to be modified to fit into tighter space at the rear of the model.



Here is the front of the car with both pots tightened in place.



Here is the rear of the car with both pots tightened in place.



Here is a side view of the chasis showing the pots in place as axles ready to receive the wheels.



Here are the future knobs. I had to remove the axles with a Dremel and then remove the chrome plating to get at the plastic area in preparation for super gluing the knobs into the wheel inset area.



The chrome plating is now gone and ready for the knob portion to be glued into place.



More to come!

[Sarah93003]

Wheels/knobs are all glued up. I'll let them sit overnight before sanding the thickness to size. Then they will fit within the wheel wells without interference.

[Olav]

Remember this? I'm sorry to report it has turned into a rather ugly story. Last I heard from Sarah was March. Since then, no reply to email or PM in several other forums. I'm told Sarah is very busy working. Yeah, I get that. Too busy to respond to an email from someone that paid her a handsome amount to build a pedal though?
Don't want to dump on you good folks here, some of whom have been very helpful, to say the least. But I don't buy the 'swamped with work' excuses (that's about all I ever got in response, when I still got one) anymore. There have been too many promises of either the pedal being finished soon or a refund. Now I don't even get a response to a message.
I haven't vented about this before because I didn't want it to reflect on the forum, which IMO it doesn't. This has gone on too long and I find myself without options now.

[dubtrub]

Edited: Regarding Sarah's disappearance from the forum. FWIW, I found this from five days ago, http://gretschpages.com/forum/rumbles/s ... 311/page1/

[Olav]

I PMed you just about all the info I have. Payment was Paypal.

[olrocknroller]

Hi Sarah.

Just re-read some of my suggestions for drilling, and realized that I hadn't included two tricks I use for really "touchy" situations... As the bit begins to penetrate the metal, you can reverse the bit rotation. This dramatically slows the cutting, but can also increase the heat, which may affect the paint. Also, for really touchy stuff, I have sometimes stopped drilling at this point, and put a small, tapered grinding bit into the chuck. Again slow, but with less heat, and the finished hole is a lot less jagged.

Hope that helps!